Submissive Roll , Alpha Roll and Strategic Roll, What’s the Difference?

Dog behavior and nuances in body language are a life long study, the simple behavior of a dog rolling onto his back can have many implications. In the context of play a dog will quite often roll on his back without any submissive or deference intended. Many dogs happily sleep on their back and still others like rolling over and stretching as they wake up.  A nice patch of grass is bound to get a dog on his back for a good scratch and roll. In this article, we will only be covering the submissive roll, alpha roll and strategic roll. Submissive rolls, alpha rolls and a strategic rolls all end with the dog on his back or side but physically and emotionally, they are quite different in look, execution and tactic. First let’s talk about the submissive roll.

rolling in grass

A roll in the grass

The submissive roll is an offered behavior, not a forced one. Puppies that have had a proper amount of social interaction with their dam and other older dogs become very adept at it. Submissive rolling is an act of deference and is meant to convey a non threat to the other being. In a submissive roll the tail is generally tucked, sometimes wagging nervously and the body is tense. This is not an invitation to interact, the correct response is to ignore and or move away from the offering dog. Interacting with a dog in a submissive roll can have many different consequences, one of the most common being urination by the displaying dog. Instead of interacting, try moving away and when the dog moves to follow, ask for a sit. Reward the sit with a treat.

puppy submissive roll

Puppy submissively rolling to the older dog

The alpha roll is a human creation. It consists of physically putting the dog on his side or his back and holding him there until he stops struggling. Since the dog is not a willing participant in this interaction, what the human is looking for is basically an absence of behavior. Depending on where you stand on this type of interaction you will either consider it ‘calm submission’ or reaching ‘learned helplessness’. The alpha roll is specifically meant to show the dog that you are the ‘alpha’ in the relationship. Personally I consider it reaching learned helplessness.

alpha roll

Alpha roll

The strategic roll is often misunderstood. Some people think it is still a form of submission, some think it is a form of play. The strategic roll is often employed in play; however, it is also a serious defense mechanism. A standing dog has his mouth and possibly his two front paws, but a dog on his back can employ all four sets of claws and his teeth. If you have ever tried to put a leash or collar on a dog that doesn’t want it, you have likely observed and interacted with the strategic roll. Trying to force a dog that is using this defensive mechanism can end in some pretty deep scratches if not some well delivered bites.

strategic roll

Strategic roll in the context of play

In play, both with humans and with other dogs, it is important to realize that when the dog goes into a strategic roll, if the energy between the two continues to escalate, that play can move over to true defense and possible physical damage.

 

Public Dog Walking Etiquette, Dealing with the Overly Friendly Public

As a trainer I get loads of questions on a continual basis. One of the questions that I get most often concerns walking dogs in public locations and specifically, what to do when someone is approaching with total disregard to your dog’s body language or your verbal requests.

The most common scenario I hear about is people approaching with their flexi leash dogoverly friendly dog, often on a flexi-leash or a similar contraption. The dog is not under control and has no manners. As the person and dog get closer you call out “Please keep your dog away from mine, my dog is not friendly”. The approaching person calls back, “It’s ok, my dog is super friendly and everyone loves him”, while they continue their unwanted approach.

We have become a rather PC society where we worry about what people will think of us, so again you call out in a somewhat more frantic voice “Please don’t come closer! My dog bites!” The person still oblivious to the danger continues to approach and the dog is almost to you. Your dog is already alert, standing rigid, tail up, maybe the hair up on his back and is looking nervously between you and the approaching dog, licking his lips and even whining possibly. The stress in your voice has served to heighten your dog and adds to the already present reactivity. Now you are looking for an escape route to get you and your dog out of danger. As the approaching dog just about reaches you, you turn and start moving away quickly with your dog, dragging him along because he is already over his threshold now and is growling and lunging towards the other dog. You move as quickly as possible away from the person and the other dog, all the while cursing the person under your breath while your dog struggles at the end of the leash. The person that was approaching finally stops with their dog bouncing at the end of the flexi-leash while they tell themselves how rude you are and how dangerous your dog is.

This is a very common scenario where all parties loose. So what can you do?  You can decide to keep your dog home to avoid such situations, but that diminishes your dog’s life. You can walk early in the morning or late at night, but really, how long are you going to be willing to do that? How soon will your dog find himself sitting at home with no walks? Those are not good solutions and can actually worsen your dog’s reactivity level

. So what do you do to protect yourself and your dog from the unwanted attentions of the overly friendly dog and owner?

When I am in a situation where I am working with a dog that is being counter conditioned for dog/dog reactivity, the last sessions are in busy park settings. I do not set my dogs up to fail, I want them to win every single time. I keep alert as to the dogs and people arounstop handd me and I constantly place myself and the dog I’m working with in a position where we are under the dog’s threshold. This means if I see an overly friendly team coming towards me, I will turn happily away with my dog before threshold is met and I will keep going, working happily as I go. The overly friendly owner will probably think that I am rude but that is not my concern. My concern is to keep my dog safe. If I am in a position where I cannot get away quick enough, I will look at the overly friendly team and put on strong body language that can be read as ‘keep away’.  I will put my hand out in a ‘stop’ signal and I will simply say STOP, in a very firm, strong voice. Usually this will stop the person in their tracks. I will then say thank you and I will move on with my dog to a safer distance. I see no need for explanations that they won’t listen to anyway. With my voice and body language, I have not heightened my dog and I stopped the situation from escalating. The more you talk, the less the other person will listen. Be strong and demanding in your voice, who cares if they come away thinking you are antisocial and mean? Your dog has been spared the attentions of the dog and the need to react.

Another thing that you can do is to counter condition your dog to a sound that is generally scary to dogs such as the sound of forced air being sprayed. If you counter condition your dog to be happy with the sound, you can then use it to move unwanted dogs away without scaring your own dog. Never spray the spray towards your dog, you are counter conditioning to the sound not the air. This method is often very effective for scaring off loose dogs as well.

If you have a dog reactive dog, I always suggest dealing with that issue. No dog should have to go through every walk worried and tense because they are afraid another dog will show up. If you have these issues, I suggest you find a qualified positive reinforcement trainer that will counter condition your dog. This will change their emotional status towards other dogs to a more positive one.

Remember, your first responsibility is to your dog, not to the general public or how the general public perceives you. You don’t need to be friendly and you don’t need to explain yourself. You just need to provide a safe and comfortable environment for your dog. Be alert to your environment; adjust to it and make being out and about a positive experience for your dog.

Being a dog and being a dog owner should be fun, not traumatic.